Gluten free dining in New York has a reputation problem, and this restaurant is single-handedly doing the work of fixing it. For too long the words gluten free on a menu have functioned as a warning rather than a promise, a signal to brace yourself for something technically edible but quietly disappointing.
This place decided that was not good enough and built something worth genuinely getting excited about. The food here does not taste like a workaround.
It tastes like a kitchen that set an incredibly high bar and then cleared it without breaking a sweat. The crowd is a mix of people who eat gluten free by necessity and people who just eat here because the food is flat out good…