In our Dining Reports, we share a firsthand perspective of a recent restaurant visit, covering everything from the vibe to must-get dishes. See more in the Eater app.
Ditroit — the semi-hidden taco window tucked behind Enrique Olvera’s landmark Mexican destination Damián — was born in part out of necessity when pandemic-era policies shuttered outdoor dining at the end of 2020. Amid the Sisyphean cycle of closing and reopening, Olvera and Damián’s chef de cuisine, Chuy Cervantes, began doling out tender suadero tacos and fried fish flautas rooted in traditional cooking approaches. Today, Ditroit endures as a fully fledged concept in its own right, operating out of the lush back alleyway of Damián during daytime hours. The taquería embodies the same respect for regional Mexican foodways as Damián while leaving its own tangible mark on each dish; its menu takes influence from classic antojitos interpreted through the lens of the city of Los Angeles around it. While Damian remains a special occasion restaurant, Ditroit can and should be an everyday affair — a neighborhood taquería brought to life by the chef behind two-Michelin-starred Pujol.
- Flauta de pescado piles chopped fish into a corn tortilla before it gets wrapped into a cylinder and deep-fried until golden and puffy. It reads like a barrel-shaped Baja-style fish taco with tender fish enmeshed in molten cheese. Crema and salsa on top hit the right creamy-acid balance, complemented by crisp cabbage threads.
- Suadero prepared with a cut found on the cow’s belly nearly melts into its retaining tortilla. Ditroit keeps the toppings simple, letting the tender meat remain the star: Diced onions and cilantro, plus a few radish rounds and a sprinkle of light-as-air chicharron, dress it.
- Carnitas tacos are a crowd-pleaser with confit pork butt stacked atop a double layer of corn tortilla. The cook on the meat is the highlight here with shreds soft enough to cut through with a spoon.
Vegetarians have a handful of solid options at Ditroit, including a vegetarian taco of the day, an epazote quesadilla, and potato flautas. Don’t leave without whichever agua fresca has been churning for the day…