Many years ago, not long after I first began reviewing restaurants, I came up with two rules of thumb that nearly always ring true: First, restaurants named after their numerical addresses (Think “Bistro 1234”) are almost always bad. Second, if a restaurant that seems like it should not have a fish taco on the menu has a fish taco on the menu, never order it.
I broke that second rule when I dined at The Key STL Burger Bar & Boogie (3225 Olive), a dual concept fast-casual restaurant and music venue in Grand Center that opened last October. Developed by the Kranzberg Arts Foundation, the restaurant is clearly a burger spot—it’s the entirety of its name, after all—and has all the trappings of the sort of place you’d pop in to grab a double smash and fries: black-red-and-white graphic-style murals depicting St. Louis-themed images, a vintage pinball machine, local sports regalia, tin ceilings, and ample TVs broadcasting a variety of sporting events. There’s nothing coastal about the space; the intoxicating scent of french fries and burger grease wafts from the large kitchen expo line.
And yet, three weeks later, The Key’s Gulf shrimp taco is the dish I haven’t been able to get out of my mind. The plump, wild-caught shrimp were beautifully seasoned and flawlessly cooked, resulting in a snappy texture and deep golden sear. Mango salsa was equally well-textured; the fruit was softened without breaking down and had a subtle tingling heat that paired well with the mango’s sweetness. Avocado salsa and cotija cheese added richness—a symphony of flavor and texture that would have dazzled even if I was sitting on a beach in Baja, but left me positively gobsmacked in the middle of Grand Center.
That The Key exceeded expectations so significantly—not only by its shrimp tacos but in its food offerings overall—speaks as much to the kitchen’s talent as it does to St. Louis’ craving for great dining options in its stunning theater district. For years, I’ve argued that Grand Center cannot be a world-class arts and culture hub without a thriving dining scene. To be sure, there have been glimmers in and around the neighborhood here and there (Bulrush, Small Batch, and Turn previously, as well as The Fountain on Locust and Salsa Rosada presently, for example). Few could argue, however, that the neighborhood’s restaurant scene has ever really risen to a level that matches the grandeur of its performance venues. This has always felt like a missing puzzle piece.
The Kranzbergs appear to understand this and have recently been making efforts to bolster the neighborhood’s dining options. In addition to creating attractive conditions for James Beard Award-nominated chef Nick Bognar’s forthcoming Khao Soi Cowboy (which will be located in the former Turn space), it has directly intervened with The Key as its operator—and to great ends. The restaurant portion of the concept does not only fill a void by creating a sports bar-style burger spot, but it also gives the area a jolt of energy in the form of excellent fast-casual food…