I count myself among the fans of McDonald’s Filet-O-Fish, whose beauty lies in the brief window when you can still feel the crunch of the fried breading, as you bite into the warm, flaky fish interior. It’s the godfather of fish sandwiches, created by McDonald’s franchisee Lou Groen in 1962 to feed Lent-observing Catholics, who avoid meat ahead of Easter.
Over the last five years, the McDonald’s icon has inspired fresh renditions at Goodtime Bar in San Jose, Ace Seafood in Oakland, and, in the city, Smish Smash and Cole Valley Tavern. The sandwich also holds special significance for the Asian diaspora; the New York Times calls it the “gold standard of fast food for many Asian Americans.” Easily the most popular to emerge out of that tradition is the fried fish bun from Chinese Bakery & Deli, a dim sum bakery in San Leandro, which now requires braving a truly frightening line.
It’s clear, in other words, that the region has a more-than-respectable fish sandwich game, especially when you consider stalwarts, such as Scoma’s on the Wharf and Mama T’s in downtown Oakland. I searched for the best and judged each one on the crispiness of the batter or dredge, the quality of the fish — rock cod has sweeter flesh, while flounder is milder in flavor with a more delicate mouthfeel — and personality. Many spots stick to the classic tartar sauce, for instance, while some incorporate chopped peppers, crunchy vegetables or hot sauce…