If you came of age in the 1980s or 1990s in California, you likely have a core memory tied to Mimi’s Cafe. Mine was located in Irvine and had the signature steep gabled roof, decorative chimney and stucco walls meant to evoke a French countryside cottage — a stark contrast to most shopping center restaurants of the time.
The vibe certainly worked on 12-year-old me and my friends. A trip to Mimi’s meant busting out my black beret, angled just so, and diving into the sugary bliss of its famous pain perdu, a custardy stuffed French toast. Perhaps you remember the rustic interior, with those romantic corner tables styled after Parisian cafes, or maybe the French onion soup. Between the big portions and the even bigger booths, Mimi’s was a place where groups like ours could feel francais and fancy on a budget.
At the chain’s height, it had 145 locations. Today, however, the Anaheim-born restaurant founded by a World War II airman has dwindled to just 38 storefronts, with the majority located in Southern California, where its brand recognition is strongest. In the Bay Area, there is just one Mimi’s Cafe left: in a Fairfield strip mall. On a recent Tuesday, my colleague and I went there for lunch, in search of those nostalgic ’90s eats…