The Best Things Our Dining Editor Ate in Sonoma County in June

From hanging tacos to vegan cocoa, here are the best things I ate in June.

Big Lou, Little Lou’s at Jack’s Filling Station: Every burger I eat from here on out will have to live up to this sassy, saucy, gloriously messy masterpiece. Two thin, lacy-edged patties, melted American cheese, grilled onions, pickles, dreamy Thousand Island-style sauce and a bun that’s soft enough to squish but sturdy enough to hold it all together — if you eat it fast enough. And you will. 899 Broadway, Sonoma, 707-343-7203, jacksfillingstation.square.site

Bibim Noodle Bowl, Little Saint: Spicy, savory and packed with umami, this sesame oil-slicked soba noodle bowl with grilled oyster mushrooms and garlicky gochujang is a showcase for plant-based cooking. Pickled vegetables, fermented cabbage, crispy shallots and nori crunch add layers of texture and flavor to a hearty cold bowl that pairs beautifully with a couple of glasses of bubbles. 25 North St., Healdsburg, 707-433-8207, littlesainthealdsburg.com

Quesa Birria Tacos, Carrusel: I can’t say these were the best birria tacos I’ve ever had, but they earn extra points for arriving suspended from a tiny clothesline. The trio, clipped up with pink clothespins and gently swaying, is stuffed with braised beef and griddled until the cheese forms a crisp shell. Who thought this was a good idea? Who cares? Served with pickled onions and a rich consommé for dipping, they’re simply fun. 630 Third St., Santa Rosa, 707-655-8365, instagram.com/cafe_carrusel

Salmon, Bohemian Bistro: A simple fillet of tender, flaky king salmon arrived with an airy lemongrass hollandaise. The seasonal dish may already be gone, but chef Ray Martinez’s ever-changing weekly menu offers plenty of reasons to return. 3782 Bohemian Highway, Occidental, 707-874-6888, bohemianbistrorr.com

Pork belly on my mind

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