Army stew is a complicated dish — not so much to cook as to reconcile.
Born of necessity during the Korean War, the hot pot known as budae-jjigae is a spicy broth studded with Spam, sausage, tofu, kimchi, ramen noodles and mushrooms. It is a dish of resilience, combining military rations with humble pantry staples to feed a population facing scarcity and displacement.
At Seoul to Tokyo Kitchen in Santa Rosa, chef Albert Park has added it to a menu of comforting soups and stews inspired by his father’s recipes. At first glance, it can seem like an outlier among bibimbap, bulgogi, martini prawns and bento boxes. In many ways, though, it is the most personal dish he serves.
The stew arrives in a shallow tureen, its ingredients arranged in neat sections around a brick of instant ramen, topped with a single, improbable slice of American cheese. Kept simmering on a tabletop burner, it is meant to be shared — diners ladle broth and ingredients into bowls of rice or eat directly from the pot…