The pitmaster watches the fire like a surgeon. The brisket has been on the smoker for hours, and the bark has turned dark and peppery.
There is no menu at this Oklahoma barbecue spot. No one needs one.
What you do need is a working strategy, because when the meat is gone, they close the doors, and that happens more often than people expect. The brisket is tender and smoky, the ribs pull cleanly from the bone, and the house-made sausage snaps when you bite into it…