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CHATHAM — At 2 a.m., the Monomoy National Wildlife Refuge is shrouded in darkness, save for the headlamps of the two volunteers trudging through the dusky sand. Their mission is simple: count the horseshoe crabs who have gathered at the shoreline to spawn.
Drawn in by the light, a lone crab, the size of a dinner plate, scuttles up and lingers by the volunteers’ boots…