Tamashiro Market closes for good April 30, taking with it a piece of Honolulu’s identity and part of ours. But all of us in mourning need to know this: That time capsule of a Kalihi fish and poke store is a success story for the Tamashiro family, who are closing it on their terms after 85 years. Brothers Cyrus and Guy Tamashiro are 72 and 69. They deserve a long and healthy retirement. That’s the story in a nutshell.
But of course there’s more, an enormity more. Three generations built a legend that by our era, launched the fourth generation toward their own dreams. That their children have grown into fulfilling careers of their own is a great satisfaction for the Tamashiro brothers. Taking over the family business was their choice—which for Guy has meant 52 years of waking at 4 a.m. to make it to the Honolulu Fish Auction for the 5:30 opening bell. The ‘ahi, nairagi and other seafood he picks out, fish by fish, fill the market’s poke and fillet cases. For about as long, Cyrus has risen at 5 a.m. to open the store and take care of business until it closes.
For much of this time, the brothers were also caregivers, and until Louise Tamashiro passed away at 94 at the end of January, they took turns staying with their mom overnight. When they told her they were thinking about retiring soon, Cyrus says, Louise gave her blessing. “Go ahead,” she said. “Take care yourselves, take care your bodies.”
So it’s time. If there’s a silver lining, it’s that we lose Tamashiro Market at its golden hour. There is no other like it. After next Thursday, it will exist in our memories—of favorite poke (‘ahi onion is still the top seller), ‘opihi you could buy by the pound, of tender madako, glistening New Zealand Ora King salmon, live crabs and pickled limu and snacks. The fishing boat hanging above the grocery aisle. The giant red crab out front…