Beneath a sign that proclaims, “Where love is the secret ingredient,” Mary T. Gatlin ferried out plates of brisket to customers she affectionately called “baby” and “my brother.”
She hugged one of them. She laughed her boisterous laugh. She chatted nonstop with the stream of regulars who came by Gatlin’s BBQ, even at lunch on a recent Wednesday.
Now 16 years old, Gatlin’s has become a barbecue staple and one of Houston’s beloved family restaurants. Greg Gatlin, the founder and Mary’s son, mans the pits with the help of his dad and brother. Mary — or “Mama Gatlin” to many of her customers — takes charge in front. And on Mother’s Day, she’ll be at the restaurant, playing the part of mom to customers and son alike.
Just because Mary is working doesn’t mean she won’t be celebrated. “Every day is Mother’s Day,” she likes to tell her kids…