Driving through the countryside, the restaurant barely registers as a destination. A modest building on a residential street, a small sign, plus a parking lot that fills by six on weekends because word travels fast in this part of the state when the cooking is this consistent.
The chef walks through the dining room between courses, checking on tables the way a neighbor would, because in a town this small most of the faces are familiar ones who have been coming back for years.
Charbroiled oysters share the menu with shrimp and grits, pork chops, plus daily specials that depend on what came in from the Gulf that morning…