Gino’s: The Little Pizza Engine That Could

There is no freezer at Gino’s Sicilian Express. No fryer, either. No stovetop. No prep kitchen hidden somewhere in the back.

There is only one oven, a small workspace, a refrigerator that only holds so much, and owner Loren Manser showing up every morning to make the dough, bake the bread, prep the sauces, and start another day at the beloved West Figueroa Street pizza shop that has chugged steadily along for 30 years.

“We’re like the little engine that could,” Manser said. “We’re still doing it.”…

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