Driving along the back roads near the lake shore, the restaurant appears where you least expect it, perched at the point where a narrow river opens up into open water. The same family has been running it since the early thirties, which in restaurant years is practically geological time.
The dining room looks out over the water. The menu is built around what comes out of it: lightly breaded yellow perch so fresh it tastes like it might still be swimming.
Regulars drive an hour or more for that perch, and they will tell you the wait is part of the experience…