A love letter to L’Opossum: Richmond dining at its best

Five stars for Richmond chef David Shannon.

Why: What he’s built with his Oregon Hill restaurant L’Opossum is so beautiful that I haven’t stopped talking about it since finally dining there over a month ago.

The big picture: Shannon opened his modern Frenchinspired spot over a decade ago, but I only got to go recently this year.

  • I fell in love the second I walked in, with its replica of Michelangelo’s “David,” phallic-shaped stained glass window, and Star Wars collectable plates.
  • “Blue Velvet” by Bobby Hinton was playing, and despite being known for its fine dining, L’Opossum felt so … Richmond.
  • The staff, many of whom are fully tatted, represented the best parts of Southern hospitality.
  • It also has a cocktail that comes wearing a mini jockstrap.

Zoom in: I still dream of the escargot on a ham biscuit and the Fabergé egg, a dish inspired by the VMFA’s collection of them that comes with caviar, salmon, lobster and a jiggly rosé gelatin…

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